Unlike their European counterparts, German women wore skirts that were cut separately from the bodice. Wool was a favorite fabric for the German skirts sewn full and pleated or gathered into a waistband. The woolen fabric was a solid color.
German “gollers” or collars were worn to cover the neck and shoulders. These gollers were unique to Germany. The favorite style goller, was a round shouldered capelet of silk or velvet. The goller had a standing neckband and was fur-lined. This is a perfect example of fashion meeting function since these gollers undoubtedly kept the wearer warm.
St Dorothea wears a black goller or round partlet over a gown with an organ-pleated skirt and a snug bodice trimmed with embroidery. She wears pieced sleeves derived from Italian styles with puffs at the elbows and shoulders, a heavy gold chain, and a gold filigree carcanet or necklace, 1506.
German fashion dictated narrow sleeves that were anything but plain. Women’s sleeves were decoratively banded with various fabrics. Alternating with the fabric banding, on the same sleeve, the Germans slashed or puffed the entire sleeve. The sleeves ended in a decorative point on the hand.
Duchess Katharina von Mecklenburg wears a front-laced gown in the German fashion, with broad bands of contrasting materials, tight sleeves, and slashes at the elbow, 1514.
Interestingly, German women adapted men’s hats to their feminine costumes. German men wore “baretts”, caps flipped back from the face. German women adapted the baretts which then became popular with English women.
Albrecht Dürer’s Young Woman of 1507 wears hat called a barett, popular in the German states.